Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Un piccolo posto

Spring break is booked! We will be traveling through Spain for 10 days!

Flight from Florence to Madrid
Train from Madrid to Seville
Flight from Seville to Valencia
Train from Valencia to Barcelona
Flight from Barcelona to Florence

It is going to be a whirlwind tour of Espana! I am excited to see Spanish cities and TCU friends in Seville! Also, LA PLAYA! We will most definitely be visiting beaches in Valencia and Barcelona, weather permitting of course (crossing my fingers).

We've also booked all of our other excursions for the semester:

Rome
Spain (Madrid, Seville, Valencia, Barcelona)
Amsterdam
Munich

And I need to research what I am doing/where I am going for the two weeks that Jennifer and I will be travelling after classes are over. I'm thinking relax and read a book for a few days on the French Riviera. Maybe fly to Dublin or Edinburgh, then London, and make our way to Paris, where our flight home leaves.

But back to Italy! Yesterday, on the way home from school, I see this man running across a busy street and straight for me. I ponder and ascertain that he is a shoplifter when I see the saleswoman chasing after him in her high heels, yelling Italian profanities and shaking her fist. Traffic stopped and I seriously considered tripping him or something, but I decided an innocent American shouldn't involve himself in Italian criminal activity. Probably a wise choice, but it wouuld have been fun to have been a hero for a day!

TCU friends from Seville and Little Rock friends from Barcelona are coming in town this weekend! Time to put on my Florentine tour cap!

Mi dispiace per il posto in ritardo...

What a week it has been! It is going to be a lengthy update!

FRIDAY. We arrived in Prague at 9 a.m. after a 12-hour bus ride through Austria and Germany. I awoke as we were pulling up to the Charles River. There was snow everywhere! And it was about 20 degrees outside. We quickly dropped our bags and met downstairs for a walking tour of the city. We started at St. Wencaslas Square, the famous city center where communism fell in Prague. Citizens gathered in protest (and celebration) in 1989 as the Berlin Wall, and communism, fell. The square is lined with shops, breweries, casinos, and traditional czech food stands (open 24 hours!). I suppose I should also mention that the Czech Republic, while in the EU, has yet to adopt the Euro (not out of their own will). Their currency is the Crown. A rule of thumb we used was 1 euro = 25 crown. My meals were usually about 200 crown...awesome.

We continued the tour to Old Town Square, where the Astronomical Clock and Tyn Church are. Vendors tend shops decorated in olde time style. It is so pretty at night!! Continuing on, we walked across the famous Charles Bridge to the east side of the city. After surmounting a perilous hill, we reached Prague Castle, the largest castle in Europe. On a pretty day, you can see the best views of Prague! It was overcast and snowy on Friday, but we appreciated it nonetheless!

Later that night, we went to traditional Czech restaurant. We tasted the world's strongest beer (33% alocohol), which was actually quite sweet. Brooke ordered duck for dinner...and the waiter brougt her an entire duck! We had a good laugh over that. Then, we experienced 80s night at the local discoteca.

SATURDAY. We woke up Saturday and had lunch at another traditional Czech restaurant (recommended by Rick Steve's, who turned out to be an awesome resource!). The garlic soup was AMAZING! Legend has it that the restaurant was haunted by a woman's ghost who ran the restaurant, selling food and "other services", while her husband was away. When he returned, he strangled her with the ropes he made for a living. The legend says that anyone with relationship issues should go and touch her portrait. None of us needed to touch her portrait.

We checked out a Salvador Dali exhibit...CRAZYYYYY. I spent 1200 crown on a pair of shoes. Then we met Hilliary and her friend, who is studying abroad in Prague, for tea at quaint little tea room (thanks, Rick!). It was a really cool experience.

We also went to the Communism Museum. It was intense. Prague has a unique history with communism. It is so recent, too! The museum showcased the plight of the everyday Prague citizen under communism, the mentality that they leaders possessed, and the techniques used to brainwash (or at least attempt to) the citizenry. It was bone-chilling. A section commemorated a 19 year-old man who burned himself to death in protest of communism. Another man did the same only a few years later. The gravity of the situation is truly indescribable. On our walking tour, we saw the Lenon Wall. I was confused for a long time because I thought it was the "Lenin" Wall. Nope. John Lenon. An entire wall is COVERED in colorful graffiti--artistic expression. Young people throughout the city chose a wall and took a stand. One of their mottos was "You can have Lenin, but give us Lenon." The Beatles, I suppose, represented Western thought and expression--freedom. Imagine all the people. I turned to see a phone booth. On it was written, "No one gives a flying, fucking shit. No? Forgive me. I am so full of hate. All I want is nuclear disarmament and free heroine required extravenous for all big business." I can't imagine all the people.

That night we took Rick's advice and went to Le Patio--if you are in Prague, you must go to this restaurant! It is French inspired, with Asian decor, and a little bit of Czech flair. It was amazing. Then we hit up a local pub and a 5-STORY DISCOTECA! Nothing will ever compare. Grazie, Praga.

SUNDAY. 12-hour bus home. We watched 6.05 movies while cruising through the German countryside and Austrian/Italian Alps. No big deal.

Thursday, February 18, 2010

Durante la settimana a Firenze

Ciao, fine di settimana! I just got out of class for the weekend (yes, it is 9 am on Thursday) and am so excited for Prague. Prague is the one city that I told myself I could NOT miss in Europe. I have only heard rave reviews about it. Hopefully I can provide more insight on Prague history next week, but the majority of Prague's contemporary history stems from its experiences in World War II. When Nazi's invaded and occupied Prague, its Jewish population (which numbered second-largest in Europe) either emigrated or were killed. I have heard that the memorials and museums dedicated to the lost Jewish population are truly moving. Post-WWII figures state the Jewish population at only 800 (as opposed to 50,000 before the war). After the Berlin Wall fell, modern Prague began to fluorish in to a vibrant and worthy capital. I can't wait!

Thinking about Prague's history with WWII also makes me think about Italy's as well. In my Italian Politics class, we watched the film, Roma: citta aperta (Rome: Open City). During war times, "open cities" are those cities which are mutually agreed to be excluded from bombings and destruction (for the most part) to preserve their historical importance and aesthetic appeal. What an interesting concept! Warlords are savage enough to employ grenades, rocket launchers, etc., as well as various forms of torture, yet are "sophisticated" enough to appreciate art and artistic beauty. Seems quite strange to me. The film, however, depicts Rome during the latter years of WWII during Nazi occupation. It is a poignant reminder of the context surrounding film and culture of the time, the inspirations for public works, and the Italian people's general attitude toward Nazis. I highly recommned the 105 mintue film.

The week was somewhat "normal," if you can say that. Last night, I met up with a friend from home who is studying in Aix en Provence, France. He is stopping in Florence for a few days while on holiday from school. We actually ended up running in to each other on the street (not THAT random because we had inteded to meet up, but none of their French cell phones work in Italy) and going to dinner at Il Gatto e la Volpa (The cat and the wolf). Their pizza fiorentina was benissima!

I should go pack my bag for the 12-hour bus ride to Prague!

Saturday, February 13, 2010

Milano in ventiquattro ore

We just arrived back in Florence from Milan. We woke up early yesterday morning, boarded our first train of the semester! In Milan, we walked a good 45 minutes from the train station to our hostel, Hotel Mister Mido. We walked up the stairs to find two unmarked doors. We climbed the stairs to the next floor to another hotel and asked where Mister Mido (the person) was. They said downstairs. So we tromped back down, knocked on both doors, and found Mister Mido himself! The hostel was quaint and pretty clean. I had very little expectations for our hostel experience, but was not upset about the accommodations. With hostels, you get what you pay for.

Milan is very unique Italian city. It experienced alot of damage during World War II, so the rebuilding process has urbanized the city. Milan is a large city with about 4 million people in the greater metropolitan area. It is quite large, but definitely navigable. The public transportation is clean and efficient. Today we woke and up ventured to the Duomo--an astounding structure whose beauty is hard to rival. Admission inside was free and much appreciated! Later, we strolled through the flagship stores of all the major fashion houses, including Prada, Louis Vuitton, and Gucci. Of course we couldn't buy anything. Even the more affordable shopping district's stores had SALE prices of 100 euro for most things. My goal was to get some suede shoes because the shoes I decided wear decided to torture my feet. Note to travelers: don't wear shoes that will not break in! However, I didn't buy any so my feet just suffered.

We decided to experience aperitivo Milanese style. On the way out of the hostel, we ran in to some Americans studying abroad in Aix en Provence, France. I think we overwhelmed them, but they were very nice and just go-with-the-flow type people. They came to aperitivo at "Blender" with us. Turns out they are in Florence tonight and will be for the rest of the weekend. Regretably, we probably won't see them again, though, since we are all tired tonight and tomorrow is Carnevale in Viareggio!

Pictures to be posted on Facebook soon!

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Il mio rinascimento

It's Wednesday...museum day.

After class this morning, Paige, Abby, and I went to The Diner for Free Coffee Wednesdays. I also ordered a bagel--which came with french fries (?). We left our mark in a little comment book that people write suggestions and memories in. Sitting down also provided time for Paige and I to do our compito italiano.

Poi, I met some friends in Piazza della Reppublica. We grabbed some panini at a whole-in-the-wall trattoria. The breadmaker spoke English well--apparently he is half American (his Mom is from Philadelphia). He gave us some great advice about constructing a proper panino. "You cannot overwhelm your tastebuds with too much at one time. Pick a flavor and compliment it." So we all got panini with ham, FRESH mozzarella, arugula, and olive oil. And of course no panino is complete without a glass of vino rosso.

Keeping (or rather, establishing)our Wednesday tradition, we christened our Amici degli Uffizi passes at the Uffizi Gallery. The structure itself is massive and ornate. Even the bathrooms were astounding (it even had a waterfall urinal)! We toured the temporary exhibits, which showcased dark portraits of devilish carnage, cannibalism, and strife. The were definitely some disturbing images. But "art," right?

We made our way to the top floor to the main gallery (!!!!). There must have been 100-150 ceiling sections that each were so meticulously detailed and painted that the entire gallery must have taken decades to complete. The Uffizi has a few notable portraits and sculptures, including the Birth of Venus. Many of the auxiliary rooms featured portraits of unknown nobility and Christian art. There were many frames depicting Madonna with Child. It was really interesting to see how each artist depicted both Mary and Jesus differently in each painting. In some, Mary looked content or even happy, where in others she looked morose. Likewise, in some Jesus was happy-go-lucky and plump (one even showed him breastfeeding), but in others he was not. The last one I took note of portrayed Jesus as a young boy, emaciated and frail, nearly falling out of his mother's arms. Unfortunately, we did not have a guide or literature, but I wonder what the artists' intentions were.

We found the cafe, which had an outdoor terrace just below the tower of the Palazzo Vecchio. A nice British woman took our picture. On the way back to the apartment, we stopped at Corona's Cafe, a quintessential Italian bar and gelateria. The have the best cappuccini...they even have chocolate shavings!

I believe Zoe for aperitivo is on the agenda for tonight. A domani.

Monday, February 8, 2010

Quando a Siena e Venezia

So sorry for the delayed update! The internet in our apartment went out again. I was gone most of the weekend and school is also closed--so communication simply has to wait. But that is the Italian way, right? I'm convinced it is with the outrageous charges for cellular phone use. If it's really important, call an ambulance. It seems like there is always an emergency around here. Ambulances and police cars zoom by our apartment at all hours of the day (but especially when I'm sleeping).

Anyway, the weekend was so good except for the rain and chilly temperatures. Friday, we woke up early and took a bus about 1 hr 15 min south to Siena, a hilly town that worships their native St. Catherine. She is the patron saint of Italy and one of six patron saints of Europe. Interestingly enough, however, she is NOT the patron saint of Siena. Her head and right thumb are kept on display in the church of San Domenico. I wish I could post a picture, but they wouldn't allow any in the church. Mi dispiace.

Siena is a town of only about 50.000 (metropolitan) with over 20.000 students! Can we say college town? I didn't get that vibe, but many students come to study language and medicine in Siena. The Piazza del Campo is the primary focal point of the town (aside from the Duomo). It hosts the annual Palio, a horse race among Siena's 17 neighborhoods. Each neighborhood has a mascot--kind of like Harry Potter--and the the winning neighborhood is considered the best in the city until the next year.

Saturday, we woke up to take a 2-story bus to Venice. We drove through the mountains that surround Florence in the valley. There was snow everywhere!! We arrived in Venice and walked through the small alleys and piazze. After crossing the Ponte Rialto, we entered Saint Mark's Square to behold the world-famous Carnivale celebration. People everywhere! It was madness. The best part were the costumes. Later, we wound our way through the small streets some more, bought Venetian masks, and took a gondola ride over a bottle of wine! It was majestic.

I slept the entire way home! Which was great because it took 3.5 hours!

Sunday, we ate lunch at The Diner, which is awesome! Granted, it is geared toward American taste buds, but after two weeks, a bacon cheeseburger and omelets sounded way too good to pass up! And coffee...real, American coffee! But now back to cibo italiano. Later, we went to a chocolate festival at Santa Croce and over indulged for sure.

Last night, we met to plan some European excursions which include Sicily, Prague, various Spanish cities, Amsterdam, and Munich. How fun! We met up with the TCU gang at Kikuya for the Superbowl. It didn't start until midnight, needless to say, we didn't stay the whole time. Class today wouldn't wait for American football.

Pictures of our shenanigans are on Facebook! Ciao, ciao.

Thursday, February 4, 2010

Gli italiani sono pazzi per calcio

Last night, Accent hosted an aperitivo mixer for us and students from KU studying here in Florence. It was at Zoe, a swanky establishment in the oltrarno (south side of the Arno). They served Asian dishes, which was a nice shift from bread and pasta. Many places here do aperitivo. Essentially, once you've purchased a beverage, the buffet is free reign. You can have seconds, thirds, or even fourths as long as you bought that first drink (usually runs about 8 euro/drink since it includes food). So it is great for college students on a budget!

Afterward, we ventured to Kikuya, which has become our go-to hot spot. Unbeknownst to us, Fiorentina was playing Milano away, so every Italian went to pubs to watch il gioco di calcio. It was so fun! The whole pub was fixated on the television and so enthusiastic about every movement. I used to think soccer was somewhat of a slow sport, but last night definitely changed that!

My weekend has started...We are taking a day trip to Siena tomorrow with Accent and the KU students. Then, Saturday we are taking a day trip to Venice for the world famous Carnivale celebration! We are not staying the night because it is quite expensive right now to get even a hostel anywhere near the citta centro. So the there-and-back bus ride will have to do. I cannot wait to get a genuine Venetian mask and take my first gondola ride!

Until then, though, I have to pass the time somehow. I purchased the Amici degli Uffizi (Friends of the Uffizi) pass last week. It was 40 euro and gives you unlimited access to every state-operated museum in Florence. There are at least 15 museums, gardens, and attractions on the list (including the Boboli Gardens, the Uffizi Gallery, and L'Accademmia). So perhaps I will find a museum to explore. It is damp and chilly, so indoors would be best!

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Il secondo primo giorno

I have now been to all of my classes. After Intermediate Italian 2 this morning, I had Art History and Italian Politics. The two latter classes are going to be my most challenging: art history (it sounds better in Italian--la storia dell'arte) with all of the dates and names and Italian politics because...well, it's Italian politics!! But I am very excited for them! Most of my art history classes are outside of the actual classroom. Living in the epicenter of the Renaissance allows us to see (and almost, but not quite touch) the art that most students only see in textbooks. And my politics class will really only conjur memories of a lost academic struggle, however, it will be interesting to learn about them from an Italian scholar.

After going to my classes, I thought in a couple weeks I will devote one day a week to each specific class topic and write about some instance of the subject matter as it pertains to Italian culture. So in a couple weeks get ready for a great recipe, some good tips on wine tasting, a crash course in Italian, some pictures of my walks through the city, and an attempt at quelling a large political beast. I will be thinking about some good things to write about!

As far as pictures go, I haven't taken many yet. It has been dreary the majority of days with the sun rearing its head for only the hours that I am in class. But when the clouds seperate and the temperature warms, I will do my best to get some pictures of the city, the hillsides, and my apartment on here! The buildings where I take my classes are converts from older, previously used facilities. The ceiling in one room is painted something like (but not really) the Sistine Chapel.

Random note: Europeans have slightly different keyboards than Americans. There are extra ctl, alt, and delete buttons. The configuration is slightly altered. And there are buttons for the letters with accents. It took me a little longer than usual for this post. (I can only imagine typing in Japanese!)

Il weekend e l'inizio di scuola

After moving into our apartment, the internet decided not to work so much, so this is the first time I have been able to update since the weekend. I am at our program computer lab!

This weekend presented opportunities to explore Florence, both visually and gustatory. We wandered the citta centro both Saturday and Sunday. I went by myself on Sunday and got lost on purpose. I ended up at the main train station--not advisable at night, but it was daylight so it was fine. The station is named Santa Maria Novella, after the nearby church that is bellisima. I sat on a bench and admired the architecture and pondered life and things--you know, what all the study abroad students do.

I am much more aquainted with Florence now. We went through a goods market and saw the local products (most of which were probably fake). Florence, however, is the number one study abroad destination in the world, and it shows. There are Americans everywhere--which makes it hard to immerse yourself sometimes, but it is also somewhat comforting. I don't like to frequent the establishments geared towards Americans, though. They are a shame to both American and Italian cultures.

I had my first bout of homesickness the other night. It wasn't so severe, but present nonetheless. I'm totally fine now and knew I would be then, but without Facebook to distract me or TV to watch, all I could do was play solitaire and think about the US. I'm great now, though!

School started yesterday! I had Italian through Cooking and Wine Tasting. Marco, il cuoco italiano, is a great teacher and chef. We made spaghetti alla carbonara and a cake with orange zest. I have the recipes and thoroughly intend on bringing them home. Giovanni, an enthusiastic Tuscan and wine producer, introduces us to the fine art of tasting vino toscano. We tasted two whites (one spumante and some other bland one) and three reds, the last of which was robust and tactile. I am learning such sophistacted describers!

Today, I went to my Italian language class and Mariangela wore us out! She speaks only Italian and VERY fast. Wish me luck!

I have two classes later today. In fatto, ho bisogna andare adesso!

Ciao, ciao